Waipiata

Where is Waipiata?

That’s pretty much what I asked when I first heard about Waipiata.  Little did I know that I actually cycled past it when we rode the Otago Rail Trail about 8 years ago.

Leaving our camping spot after spending 3 days exploring St Bathans (see my previous blog), we headed to the small settlement of Waipiata, the Domain was to be our choice of spots for a few nights.  Just a 43km drive for us today.  Check out the map below.

Waipiata Domain

The Waipiata Domain (NZMCA#8765) is located across from the Otago Rail Trail (ORT).  It is a large flat area surrounded in tall, skinny pine trees.  A new flush toilet and non-potable water are also on site.  We saw large drums which I’m presuming is for rubbish.

It’s a great spot if you are wanting to explore this section of the ORT and all they ask for is a donation.  It is great to have spots like these we can still enjoy.

there’s certainly room to move – it was a quiet time at the Domain

There is a new sign which states only a 3-night stay is allowed and Self Contained Vehicles only.  Good luck with them enforcing that as I understand many families make it their campsite for longer periods of time than that.  There were also cyclists who set up their small tents as they traverse the ORT, and it is still advertised on other apps as ‘tent friendly’.

Waipiata Country Hotel

It would be fair to say that the heart of Waipiata, would have to be the Waipiata Country Hotel, and just maybe, one of the reasons for us stopping off.  It just happens to be conveniently located across the trail from the Waipiata Domain.

certainly conveniently located close to the ORT and Domain

They have an excellent reputation for great food and hospitality within the travelling fraternity so it seemed like a ‘no brainer’ to check it out.  Of course, just to make sure it was as good as what we had heard.

Well, I can confirm the rumours.  We enjoyed a couple of hot dinners while we were in Waipiata and it is certainly worth a stop.

Okay, I admit that we may have visited on more than one occasion!

Waipiata History

The opening of the railway really ‘kick-started’ the formation of the towns of Ranfurly and Waipiata in 1898.  There is very little left of the bustling railway town.  The hotel is the second version of the original as fire destroyed the first structure.  It has been serving patrons since 1899.

As you leave Waipiata, keep a lookout for the historic ‘Green Bridge’, constructed in 1896.  This is the only flood-free crossing of the Taieri River in Maniototo.

Hamiltons

Located just 10km from Waipiata is the now non-existent settlement of Hamiltons.  Back in 1863, gold was discovered in this area located on the northern slopes of the Rock and Pillars.  Named after the runholder, Captain Hamilton, it became a flourishing town for a few years.  During its heyday, its population reached 4,000 with some 25 hotels and 40 stores.

the cemetery is all that is left of the bustling town

the dam is still in use today for irrigation

Its existence was however short-lived as the gold diminished and by 1870 most miners were gone, and the town went into decline.  All that is left is the scarred areas of mining, a dam which was used for sluicing, water races and a cemetery.

it is a real credit to those who were involved in the restoration of this stone wall

Sitting on a prime spot, the cemetery commands beautiful views over the Maniototo Plans.  There is a beautiful stone wall which has been painstakingly restored by the local Rotary Club.  The work they have done to revive this slice of history is a real credit to them.

It is a peaceful spot and as we wandered the cemetery, it provided a bit of an insight into the early history of the Maniototo.

Waipiata Sanatorium

Just a little further down the hill from the Hamiltons Cemetery we found what was formerly the Waipiata Sanatorium.  It opened in 1923 and was one of five hospitals set up to reduce TB in NZ’s population.  Patients could spend years here.

there are a lot of substantial buildings in the process of renovation

Construction started back in 1914 and its location was chosen as it was considered a suitable cure for tuberculosis (consumption as it was known as back then).

the old staff quarters and 2nd large ward overlooks the stunning valley below

Those poor patients were often wheeled out onto the open balconies and the windows were never closed, even in the middle of winter.  The night nurses would have to do their rounds, replacing frozen hot water bottles in the patient’s beds!  Even umbrellas were used to stop the snow from settling on them.

Over the years, the Sanatorium grew with ward blocks, admin building, operating theatre block and houses for staff and a farm. Over 5,000 patients were treated during its time and records show that only 61 people died at the facility.  

Closed in 1961

After the Sanatorium closed in 1961, it became a youth correction centre for the Justice department in 1979.  

It is now privately owned and is known as a Christian retreat called En Hakkore.

the Art Gallery, situated close to the old Laundry building

We took a drive through the main entrance and parked up at the signs indicating Art Gallery.  We had a quick look around, aware that we were on private property and not wanting to impose too much.  There wasn’t anyone around and the gallery was closed.  I have been told that the owners are only too happy to talk to visitors and tell the story of the Sanatorium.

Today, many substantial buildings remain.  As we drove around we gained a sense of how significant this facility was in the treatment of a dreadful disease that can thankfully now, be treated with drugs.

Patearoa

Just a 15km drive from Waipiata is the township of Patearoa (formerly known as Sowburn).  This town came into being in the 1870s as its close neighbour Hamiltons declined.  Many of its new residents were miners but as the gold diminished, many of them turned their hand to farming.

restored holiday homes mix with the original structures that make up Patearoa – which includes possibly the smallest library I’ve ever seen

Many of the original mud-brick cottages remain and have been turned into quaint holiday homes.

Sowburn Walk

We parked up at the Sowburn No 2 bridge beside the Sowburn River which meanders out of the Rock and Pillar Range high above the township.  This is also the start of the Sowburn Walkway.

signage points you in the right direction

It is a pleasant shady track which hugs the river and opens out onto the next bridge which is a popular swimming hole for the locals on these hot summer days.

a popular swimming hole with the locals

We continued on to part two of the track and soon saw evidence of the remains of massive sluicing activities that went on in the area.  Leaving behind the tell-tale scars of the white porous soil still exposed after all these years.  Regeneration is slow or non-existent in the areas where all the soil and vegetation was washed away to get to the gold below.

this pile of unassuming rocks was actually the home of a hard-working and hard-drinking miner – Tom Lewis

We continued on past the remains of a Chinese miners settlement with evidence of huts, tailings and even the dog kennel is still intact.

Chinese miners certainly didn’t need much room!

Dykes Dam

Dykes Dam was our final destination.  Painstakingly built from local rocks, its life was short-lived.  Little now remains of the dam itself as not long after its construction it was washed away when Sowburn River flooded.

Crossing the bridge will take you to Dykes Dam

It still provided a beautiful backdrop of rocky pools where the water cascaded over the smooth rock faces.

All that is left of Dykes hard work to build the dam

I’m sure it provides much-needed relief to those walkers who chose to take a dip.

such a beautiful setting with deep green rock pools and cascading water

We returned to our starting point, this time walking along the opposite side of the river which follows an old water race. The entire track took us around 1.5hrs, with plenty of stops along the way.

old pipes which lead to the old water race

Summary

Waipiata and its surrounding areas are proof that there is always treasures to uncover, no matter how small and insignificant an area can seem on first impressions.  Once again, it is all about peeling back the layers to discover the surprises that lay waiting to be discovered.

the sun setting across the domain