Going Back to Where it all Began
We have been lucky enough to secure back-to-back house/pet sitting assignments over the past couple of months so the blogs/vlogs have been few and far between.
We were fortunate enough to be chosen to look after a Sheltie dog in the lovely town of Hoi An, Vietnam. This was the perfect opportunity for us to go back to Vietnam. This is the country which inspired us to do what we are doing and live the lifestyle we do.
This is the third visit to this country for us and there is still so much more to see.
Nine Days Off
We call our travels between house sits our holidays. This is because we treat our sitting assignments as a job. First priority is always the animals in our care which means that there is a lot of ‘down time’. We like to spend as much time with them to form a bond with them as soon as possible.
We had 9 days after arriving in Hanoi to travel down to Hoi An. This was enough time for us to travel south and visit the places we hadn’t seen previously.
First Stop – Hanoi
It’s been 4 years since the last time we were in Hanoi. We knew that there were places we didn’t get to see with our first visit. This blog is on these attractions so you need to know that there is way more to see than what we saw this time around. As with any trip, do your research to find out the main tourist attractions as they are well worth visiting.
Accommodation
We have learnt that although we are budget conscious, it is imperative to get the location right. It can give you a whole different perspective of a place if you get it wrong. If this means spending a bit more then it is a good investment.
We knew that we wanted to be in the Old Quarter. Last time, we were in Hanoi we stayed outside this area, more on the fringes. The Old Quarter is definitely where it all happens so I would recommend that you concentrate on this area for your accommodation.
The Authentic Hanoi Homestay
We aren’t always fans of using Air BnB but decided to book our stay at The Authentic Hanoi Homestay. Just be aware when booking through Air BnB that there are Booking Fees and sometimes Service/Cleaning fees added on top of the quoted price for all listings. This can mean that it can work out more expensive than better accommodation on booking.com or agoda – or dealing with the accommodation direct if possible. Once again – research, research, research.
This homestay hasn’t been open very long and it is one of two homestays run by the same family. With it being so new, the rooms are fresh and clean having recently being renovated.
Their communication prior to our arrival was excellent. Kevin (our host) was in constant contact with us and was very helpful with suggestions and offers of assistance. We decided to take him up on the offer of having an airport pick-up for $20US/$73nz.
This of course is expensive compared to the local bus or even a taxi. The pro’s sometimes outweighs the con’s as Vietnam is renown for it’s taxi scams and the local bus transport is far from reliable and there was no direct route from the airport to our homestay.
Our homestay turned out to be in a perfect location and right in the heart of the area that we wanted to explore. We were down a busy lane but our room was towards the rear of the building. This meant that it was quieter but no windows – so there is always a trade-off.
The cost was $28nz per night (including booking and service fees) and also included breakfast and an authentic Vietnamese Dinner with the host family on our first night. This was a lovely touch and we sat down with a few of the other guests, our host and his sisters (well I think it was his sisters – never can quite tell).
Sightseeing
As mentioned earlier, we wanted to just spend time experiencing the Old Quarter and wandering around the areas that we either didn’t get a chance to see last time, or quickly skimmed over on our short stay 4 years ago.
In Hanoi, there are many one-way lanes and streets and they don’t all meet up in a logical manner, hence you never can make out where you are going to end up. Getting lost is all part of the adventure – all the while dodging traffic and negotiating crowded and potholed footpaths.
Train Street
The twice daily (3.30 and 7.30pm) train, linking Vietnam’s capital of Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City , passes through a residential area in Hanoi’s old quarter. The trains run so close to the houses that the residents must ensure that all their wares are stacked away and stay out of the way of the train. There is less than a metre clearance in some places.
We took a wander down Train Street in the morning and took in the vibe of locals just going about their daily business. There were trackside kitchens cooking up the meal for the coming day, hair saloons open for business directly out onto the track and small children playing and jostling between the sleepers.
We were so enchanted by the whole area that we decided to go back that evening to watch the 7.30pm express coming through. We grabbed ourselves a beer and a pallet to sit on at the Railway Cafe and waited for the train.
There are a number of cafe’s that set up small tables and chairs in the middle of the track. Word goes out when the train is close, everyone just stands up, picks up their chairs and then hug the side of the building! The train doesn’t really slow down much either. The train driver does sound the horn quite a few times and just keeps on going. Quite a unique experience and one that I would definitely recommend (see our video below for more of the action).
Hoan Kiem Lake
A visit to Hanoi would not be complete without a wander around the lake. No matter what time of the day or night you go, the lake is surrounded by activity. It’s the perfect opportunity to people watch. There are garden pathways around the lake which means that we didn’t need to navigate the traffic by crossing the infamous streets for a while.
On the northeastern edge of the lake is the popular Ngoc Son Pagoda. There was an entrance fee to pay to go in so we only wandered over the picturesque Hun Bridge – we’ve had more than our share of pagoda’s so gave this one a miss.
French Quarter
Dotted around this area, we found many traces of the French Colonial era. There are French Patisseries, French Restaurants and beautiful buildings reminiscent of the typical French Colonial design.
None more typical than the Sofitel Metropole Legend Hotel and the Opera House. Construction on these buildings started in 1901 and are beautifully restored and maintained.
Hanoi Police Museum
The Hanoi Police Museum tells the interesting history of Hanoi’s police force and has some interesting photographs and exhibits.
The force was established in 1946 and has separate displays grouped in 10 year time slots. It is well laid out in chronological history with displays of uniforms, weapons and motorbikes.
Entrance is free and well worth a visit to fill in an hour or so.
St Joseph’s Cathedral
The beautiful St Joseph’s Cathedral is in downtown Hanoi and was consecrated in 1886. It remains very active today being the home to a large community of local Catholics. Mass is held every day and many turn out in large numbers.
It is of a gothic design and features twin bell towers, and elaborate altar and beautiful stained-glass windows. They were doing quite a large restoration project towards the front of the cathedral so we were unable to view the entire altar.
It’s architectural style is described as resembling Notre Dame de Paris. It is the oldest church in Hanoi.
Vietnam Military History Museum
The Vietnam Military History Museum was opened in 1956 and contains over 150,000 artefacts, documents and photographs.
It consists of various buildings showing the different eras of Vietnamese military history. There is a variety of military equipment and vehicles used by the United States and the North Vietnamese Army. The tank famed for smashing through the Independence Palace in Saigon in 1975 stands pride of place in the foyer of one of the buildings.
The Flag Tower of Hanoi is within the bounds of the complex as well. We were able to climb the first two tiers of the tower, however, the spire is inaccessible. This gave a great view over the outdoor display area (which has been dubbed ‘The Garden of Toys”). This included a huge monument which has been put together out of the wreckage of a B-52, which was shot down by government forces. Displays of French and American machines/aircraft and a Russian transport plane. There was also a MIG-21 fighter, a surface-to-air missile and plenty of spent ordnance.
At the centre is a huge photo of a Viet Cong soldier dragging the wing of an American plane across the beach. As the tattered tailpiece of the bomber loomed up towards the sky, it cast an eerie shadow across the landscape – quite a striking monument.
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Ho Chi Mihn Mausoleum is located in Ba Ding Square and is one of the most visited attractions in Hanoi. It is the final resting place of Ho Chi Minh, the most iconic and popular leader of Vietnam, known to his people as ‘Uncle Ho’. After his passing in 1969, his body was preserved and lies in a glass case in the cooled central hall of the mausoleum, which is protected by a military honour guard. We were fortunate enough to witness the ‘changing of the guard’. This was carried out with military precision as one might expect (see our video below).
A very impressive building and an equally impressive changing of the guard
Every year, Uncle Ho’s body is sent to Russia for maintenance. He must have been there when we visited as the mausoleum was closed to the public. Unfortunately, so too was the Ho Chi Minh Museum which is adjacent to the Mausoleum. It is closed every day between 12 noon and 2pm for lunch.
And Then There’s the Food
It’s no secret – we are Foodie Fans. We believe that food enhances the experience. Wherever we travel, we take great delight in finding out the local delicacies. Most SE Asia countries have dishes that are specific to a certain area. Nowhere is this more prevalent than in Vietnam. And did I mention cheap? Oh so cheap to eat and drink – especially in the food stalls and streetside eateries populated by the locals.
The average meal can range from 20,000VND/$1.20NZ to 40,000VND/$2.50NZ. We also try to drink the local beer. These are actually quite drinkable (even for me) and we can get large bottles for around 20,000/$1.20NZ.
Always sample the local brews and coffee
Hanoi has some unique food and thankfully they love their Pho Bo (as do we). This is the best noodle soup on earth and originated in the north. It does pay to stick to the little food stalls that sell nothing else but Pho Bo. They are cooking those beef bones from morning to night and mix in the perfect amount of spices and herbs. thin slices of beef are layered on top and cooked through by the hot broth. A good Pho should be served with a side dish of greens – usually bean sprouts, lettuce and Vietnamese mint.
Pho ordered from a restaurant is never as nice as I’m sure that it is a standard broth with bits added to order. I have been disappointed by ordering pho from these places and always found that I’d rather go see ‘Mumma Cook’ out on the street any day.
So many choices, so little time
Other delicacies we enjoyed on the footpaths of Hanoi were Bahn Mi, fresh and deep fried spring rolls and egg coffee – delicious……oh and I can’t forget to mention our daily fix of Vietnamese Drip Coffee. A test of patience as you watch it drip into your cup but oh so worth the wait.
Keep an Eye Out For Scammers
Food Stalls
We all know that SE Asia can be a hot bed for scammers. Vietnam is no different, in fact we have had to be more vigilant than in some other countries. We always expect to be charged more than the locals when order things like food – especially if there are no menus with price lists. It is important to know what the average price is and we don’t get too upset if we get charged slightly more. We do draw the line however, if the price is hugely exaggerated and we are clearly being ripped off. Always ask the price before you order to make sure that you know how much it is going to cost before you get the food.
Taxis
We were pleased to learn that Grab Car/Taxi is now available in Vietnam. This is our preferred choice when using taxis. However in saying that, we have used a metred taxi when travelling short distances. The two most reputable companies are Vinasun and Mai Linh. These are both metred taxi companies but be aware that there can be imitation cars painted in similar colours. Make sure you are getting into the correct one. The drivers are always dressed in white shirts and wearing the appropriate coloured ties.
The Fruit Sellers
We see them all the time. Usually ladies, walking the streets carrying two large baskets of fruit on either end of a bendy plank of wood. They will approach you and make conversation, offer for you to put the wooden plank on your shoulder so you can feel how heavy it is, then let you have a photo opportunity and BOOM – you are sold some fruit at an exorbitant price and asked for money for the photo shoot. If this happens, you are best to pay the money and walk away a lot wiser and ready for the next one. Thankfully we had read up on this scam and knew not to get sucked into this. There are many that don’t and we saw it time and again happen to unsuspecting tourists.
Shoe Repair Man
These are the guys you will see sitting on the side of the footpaths – shoe shiners. Next minute they are chasing after you, furiously pointing to your shoe and mumbling something along the lines that your shoe is about to fall apart. Unsuspecting tourists will often stop as they are so insistent that you think something is seriously wrong. When you lift your foot up, they whisk off your shoe, jandal or sandal and start to stitch, glue or polish. In the end they have done a job and fully expect to be paid for it, whether you agreed to it or not.
If you are aware of this scam, just keep walking and politely shake your head. Now I have some pretty sad looking sandals of which I’m very attached to. I call them my Jesus Sandals and they have covered many, many kilometres over the past 4 years of travel. Well I was open slather for these scammers and I had no less that 6 of them approach me in the space of a small distance. One was even hanging off my arm, pleading with me to let him ‘fix’ my shoe. I kept up the pace and gave him no opportunity to whip that sandal off my foot.
Our travels continue…….
We spent 3 nights in Hanoi and made the most of our time in this fabulous, yet chaotic city. As mentioned earlier, there is so much more to see if it’s your first time visiting.
Click on the link below to see a short video of some of our highlights.
So good. Loved it so much.